第一次知道阿姆哈拉语就像意大利语那样用“ciao”表示“再见”时，是从埃塞铁路公司来培训的当地姑娘那里偶然发现。然而翻看埃塞的历史，这种巧合却又并非偶然，十九世纪末以及二战时期，意大利都曾入侵过这个人口排行非洲第二的国家，最终却又屡次被其击溃。
这是一段埃塞人民颇为骄傲的历史。包括后来许多非洲的国家，在追求民族独立的过程中，连国旗的颜色和样式，都有形无形地对其进行了模仿。另一件使埃塞人民引以为豪的事情便是他们传统的日历与时间。按照本地的日历，人们至今仍生活在二零零八年。而本地的时间也与格林威治时间完全不同：当地的凌晨开始于我们早晨的六点，下午却始于我们的黄昏。
所以刚来不久的某个早晨，我终于和司机大吵一架，明明提前约好了次日凌晨四点半的事情，他却迟迟不来，生了半天气后才发现，各自用了不同的时间制式。
同事说，埃塞人有一种莫名其妙的民族优越感。我的反应比较迟钝，最近才渐渐感觉出来。
起因在于那天从Roman
再次领略他们的蛮横是今天上午的工作，当大家辛辛苦苦忙了半天却不被认可时，在正午的大太阳下面，我真的很想吵架。记得很久之前有人讲过，非洲人是畏威而不怀德的，被殖民过的国家如此，未被殖民过的国家看来亦同样如此。
对了，我差点忘了入境那天在机场税务局“难忘”的经历。哪怕是带给朋友的personal
想起之前多次在Bole机场转机的经历，站在二楼偌大的窗户前看见的是那样一个郁郁葱葱让人充满幻想的城市。当你真的站在这个城市的街上时，失望如人潮一样席卷而来。马路坑坑洼洼，烂尾楼随处可见，乞讨的小孩毫无礼貌，中年男性当街小便。司机们亦像中国人一样毫无耐心，鸣笛声此起彼伏，路上的栅栏和人行道似乎作用不大。
我会忍不住想，这是未被殖民的缺点，因为没有人曾经教育他们如何做人。
同是这样让人失望的国家，又曾有过让人同情的历史。70年代的埃塞也曾发生过中国80年代的悲剧。彼时门格斯图掌权，接受苏联援助，大搞政治集权，制造红色恐怖。异见分子和无辜平民遭到惨无人道的屠杀。1991年反政府武装最终攻陷首都，门却逃到了另一个集权国家津巴布韦。2008年新政府以种族灭绝罪判处门死刑，但津巴政府的发言人却为其辩护：门格斯图极其政府在我们的独立斗争中扮演了出色的的角色。
“Red
阿姆哈拉语里同样有一句“baka”，意指“足够了（enough）”，点餐的时候服务员对使我在大太阳下面生气的那位说到这个词时我终于忍不住开心地笑了起来，笑完之后我会悄悄地告诉坐在他对面的瑞典和印度同事这个词在日语里的意思。
不过，埃塞也不是完全使人生气失望的国家。历史是让人忍不住同情的一种理由。贫穷以及悬殊的贫富差距还是会让人心生怜悯。华人酒店的当地保安一个月1800比尔，合人民币600元不到，轻轨运营公司的本地会计一个月1700比尔，而每天深夜清洗列车的阿姨以及那些年轻小伙子却只有区区1000比尔。与工资相比，市区的房价和房租都高到离谱。只有Injera（埃塞的主食，原材料为画眉草）的价格让人感到安慰，但吃过两次之后却又再也不想吃，酸是一方面，另一方面总让人禁不住产生太多关于贫穷的记忆。
那一天在街上我又看到了经久不见的Jacaranda（蓝花楹），紫色美丽又忧郁，忧郁到本是旱季的大地却连续几天下起雨来。想起出发之前BBC上的新闻，今年的干旱已经造成了一千万的灾民。心里又因这雨水多了些许慰藉。
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